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Water Cooling 3!

by David Ross on 27 October 2000, 00:00

Tags: Thermaltake (3540.TWO)

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The Block and Plumbing

This is my water block

As you can see it has several rectangular water passages that are 1/16" tall with 1/16" between the water and the heat source. It is also the perfect size for a 40mm peltier element. The passages are symmetrical, which I hope will promote equal flow across the face of the water block, if it does not work out that way, the copper construction will take care of it. Another innovation (if I may be so bold) is it's soldered construction. It is an easy way to join the two pieces, and is less likely to leak than setscrews or pipe plugs and Teflon tape.

Other people use blocks with two or three holes drilled in them and a few setscrews to seal them up. These work well. My design is untested, but I believe that it will be better. When I get all of my parts together, I will do a test and another article about the results. If you don't want an experiment, or you don't have the machines necessary to build one of these water blocks, by all means go with something that is proven to work.

Now the pump. I prefer the inline because you don't need a reservoir which could spill or leak. I specifically like the danner model two pump. It is an inline mag drive pump. It has only one moving part which means that there is less that can go wrong. It also has pipe threads on the inlet and outlet which makes leak resistant connections easy. Last but not least it flows 250 gallons per hour. Of course the water block and radiator will restrict the flow, but even after accounting for the restriction it should pump plenty of water.

I paid $34 at petsmart.com, but it was back ordered so it took several weeks to arrive. Since the rest of my system is not complete yet, it did not matter, but it might be a factor for you.

Now that you know what you need, you should know how to put the pieces together. The most important thing is to keep track of any air that is in your system. It will collect in any place where it can't float up to the top of the system.

As you can see in the schematic I have the water level above all of the other components. This will make it very difficult for air to get down in to the waterblock, pump or radiator. The pump and water block would be the worst place for air pockets to form, so keep them as low as possible, and at the same time, raise the water level as high as possible. When the system is being filled for the first time, there may be some air pockets that will not fill with water. Try to figure out where they will be and install bleed screws to remove the remaining air.